DIY Height Adjustable Desk

Some days, I work for hours on end at my computer, and when I switch to hardware mode, I won't even look at my PC. A few days back I started to notice changes in my posture. I realized that I was walking differently and my shoulders were not relaxed due to my prolonged and uncomfortable seated posture.

To temporarily address this issue, I attached a portable laptop table to a 50”x27” plywood board and placed it on top of my desk. I was pleased with the height, and it provided a different experience for working while standing. Firstly, I noticed that my attention span increased, likely because my feet started to hurt after standing, and I wanted to finish my work quickly so I could sit down again. Secondly, I finished my work much quicker.

In the meantime, I began searching for height-adjustable tables because I couldn't work standing for 10 hours a week indefinitely. I found many tables overly priced, but they lacked drawers and compartments. Having a separate storage unit was not something I was interested in.

So, I thought, why not convert my study desk into a height-adjustable one? It has drawers and compartments, and my belongings were well-organized with all the additions I had made to this study table. I simply didn't want to replace or redo all of that. Also, I have had this desk since I was in 3rd grade, and I have worked on so many projects on this desk that it feels like a part of me, and I can't bear to part with it.

There is no set rule on how to proceed; there will be many ways by which you can accomplish this. For me, I used these tools and materials for this project:

• 1”-1 ½” Wood screws (always handy to have a box full of them)
• 2*M10 buts, bolts and washers
• 2*M12 buts, bolts and washers
• 2* Linear actuators 500mm(20inch) – 12volts - 6000N
• 1* Power supply unit 12v*20amps (240watts)
• 1* Double pole double throw momentary rocker switch
• 4* 20inch drawer slides
• Your preferred brand of Wood glue
• 2* L Shaped support angles (outsource or self-fabricated)
• 12 Gauge wire (Length will vary from desk to desk)
• Crimp connectors (based on your liking) and crimper
• 2”x1” Timber (Length will vary from desk to desk, I used 178 inches)
• Drill Machine to drill pilot holes
• Jigsaw/ Hand Saw
• Drill bit according to wood screws and bolts
• Right angle scale
• Inch Tape
• Wood planer
• Chisel
• Mallett/hammer
• Multimeter

In case you don't have these tools or are uncomfortable using them, please ask for help from an elder or a local carpenter.

I had installed a new tabletop on this desk a few years back. I began by removing that tabletop and then used a jigsaw to remove the center portion of the desk (the original plywood) for easy access during installation.

Now that the top view is clear, I created a layout for the placement of the vertical and horizontal columns and the linear actuator. I wanted the leading edge (front) of the desk to be more rigid than the trailing edge. The reason for this is in case I lean on the table, I didn't want it to topple over, potentially damaging the monitor and anything else placed on the table. Based on the dimensions I obtained, I had my supply of wood cut to the appropriate lengths and marked the locations for the tenon and mortise joints.

Based on the measurements (there were some changes in the dimensions but you get the idea how the support structure forms), I secured the vertical column to the side wall of the desk using 1 inch wood screws and attached two 20-inch drawer slides with another vertical column, as seen in the picture.

After checking the movement and alignment of the two slides, I repeated the same process on the other side, ensuring that both vertical columns were perpendicular and in line with each other. If they are not aligned properly, they may bind when extending and retracting, which can lead to severe damage to the slides and actuators.

Once I was satisfied with the movement, I disassembled the vertical columns to carve out the mortises suing chisel. After completing this step, I reassembled them using wood glue, and with this, the support structure was now complete.

It's time to add the lifting arms to the table. Commercial height-adjustable desks typically use telescopic columns, which come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Telescopic columns are much faster compared to linear actuators because they are multistage, and all segments extend and retract simultaneously. So, you can imagine that while a linear actuator covers 5mm in 1 second, a telescopic column can cover 15mm to 35mm (depending on the variation of the lead screw pitch) in 1 second. However, for this build, a linear actuator will work just fine.

To mount the actuator securely to the table, first, we need to measure the gap between the bottom of the actuator and the floor. I attached two L-shaped support angles using M10 nut and bolt, then secured the support bracket to the underside of the lifting support created in step 5.

I planned the wood stock to match this height using a wood planer and created two identical pieces, one for each side. I drilled some relief holes for the protruding screws of the end cap of the linear actuator so that it would sit flush and not rock back and forth. I also drilled a hole for fixing the actuator to the stock using an M12 bolt. After double-checking the fit, I secured the stock to the desk using wood screws.

Repeat for the other side. Align the tabletop and screw it in place.

For wiring, I connected both actuators in parallel and used a DPDT momentary rocker switch with the PSU. I chose a momentary switch instead of a latching switch as a safety precaution. I used ring terminals on PSU, female spade connectors for DPDT momentary rocker switch. A long time ago, I had made a momentary toggle switch extension for my PC to power it on and reset it, so it feels like living like a pilot, haha. These two momentary toggle switches are mounted on a panel that I designed in Fusion 360 and then 3D printed. This panel is then screwed into the desk, similar to how cockpit panels are fitted. I followed the same design language and created two more panels for the rocker switch and a few other small toggle switches for lighting purposes. Always make sure of the connections using multimeter on continuity mode.

Ripe the fruits of your labour and thank you for taking the time to read this till the end.