Fly Fishing Pocket Lure Box

I created a small box to hold my Flies while Fly Fishing, I wanted something useful yet elegant and nice to look at.

CnC Router

Router table

45 Degree Router bit

1/8" carbide CnC Router bit

1/16" carbide CnC Router bit

1/2" thick Hardwood of choice

3/16" thick cork sheets

4mm Barrel Hinges

5mm small magnets

Medium Thick Superglue

Superglue activator spray

Polyurethane wood finish

sandpaper from 120 to 600 grit

double sided cellophane tape

Using a CnC isa skill all its own, so I will assume you posses the skill set needed to accomplish most of the tasks such as create and modify gcode and know what router bits and speeds are needed. This would be a multi session Instructable to cover every aspect of the process. This is however a very basic project if you are a new user to CnC so I hope this inspires some great ideas to add or modify this project and make it all your own and enjoy it or create an heirloom gift for some family member who loves fishing.

I own an Xcarve CnC machine, so I used the software that came with it. But you can use any CAD (Computer Added Design) Software. I don't like having my laptop out in the shop so I dont use EASEL for the CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) Software, I used a Raspberry Pi to control the Xcarve CnC running Universal Gcode Sender or UGS for the CAM Software.

So the first thing you want to do is to design your Fly Box to whatever size and dimensions that fit your needs. Then you design the cork insert to hold the Flies. Make sure the cork insert is made slightly smaller than the inside dimensions of the inside of the box to allow for swelling and expansion of material. No more that half a millimeter for width and height. I use double sided Cellophane take to adhere it to the inside of the box so that I can replace it if it gets damaged durring use. The ones I gave out as gifts I included extra inserts to the recipients.

Secure the material down to the CnC bed and zero the CnC then start the job. This process takes an hour or more depending on the number of boxes in the design. You will save time by setting up more than just one box at a time.

The cork is cut out the same way, except I advise you use the double sided tape to hold the material, the cork, down to the waste board as the cork is very flexible and will rise up to the bit and get damaged during the cutting process. Set your cutting speed very slow and depth increments very low, like 0.2 mm per step to prevent tear out. use a sharp carbide bit, I used a 1/16" but the 1/8 will still work, you will just have more rounded corners at he inside edges.

At this point in the process use the CnC to engrave the lid, you may want to add a design or image to the lid of the box. This can also be done in the CAD software, there are many ways to center the image or design. On my Box I just left the natural grain and did not engrave it. But that is personal choice, and the ones I sent out as gifts I used the CnC engraver or Laser etched an image.

To chamfer the back edge for the hinges to operate properly you will need to adjust the 45 degree router bit on a router table to cut half way through the holes for the barrel hinges. Once this is set you may cut all back edges on all parts for the boxes you have made so far. This cut goes all the way across. The same depth can also be used for the access slot to open the box on the other side. For that cut I placed pencil marks on the fence to show where to start the cut and where to finish it so that my slot is in the middle and only about an inch long.

Place a full sheet of sandpaper down on a flat surface to lightly sand the mating edges to maintain consistency. This sanding job is done to remove tooling marks on entire box too, don't over sand yet as we will assemble the box next and finish sanding after all parts are joined to keep it all symmetrical. Sand lightly with 220 grit and to 400 grit on joining parts on flat surface.

Set the hinges fist making sure the action is smooth then spray kicker to set the glue. Make sure not to use to much glue so you don't glue the hinges in the open or closed position locking their action and destroying your box. After hinges are set you can add the magnets. add them in pairs so you insure they are facing the correct way.

Make sure magnets are facing the correct direction so they attract and do not repel.

with a cotton cloth rub in the polyurethane, and sand wit 400 grit wet sand paper for glass like finish. I did 6 coats and finished off with 1000 grit paper. This is what took the most effort, take you time here for best results.

Now add the cork insets and you are done, GREAT JOB, be proud!!!!