Introduction: Simple DIY Tool Box.
I like to do DIY around the house and fix things. I needed a tool box for one off use or specific tasks.
Whenever I needed to put up a picture or do a bit of DIY I would collect all the necessary tools and materials and then have nothing to carry it all with, as my other tool boxes are large and have things in that I don't use for every job. So that’s why I thought I would make a little one use tool box.
Supplies
It would probably be best to have a good look at all the stages to get an idea of what is needed as I don’t know if I got everything in the section
Tools.
- saw, hand saw, circular saw or table saw should all work
- rulers and measuring tools.
- Pen/Pencils any marking tools.
- Drill.
- Forstner bits, counter sink bits and wood drill bits.
- Clamps
Materials.
- Wood plank, I used a scrap shelf board and a section of leftover plywood.
- Thin mdf. For the internal caddy (optional)
- Wooden dowel, I used an old broom handle.
- Wood screws.
- Glue.
- Paint.
Step 1: Draw Up the Plans.
There are no real plans for this tool box. I just designed the box around the size of the plank of wood I was going to use for the main parts of the tool box. The broom handle informed the size of the top of the main parts that hold the handle.
the design of the tool box went through the classic lunch box style to one with a compartment on one end to house larger power tools (depending on the job at hand, mainly a drill or screwdriver) this was the only part that hadh to be of a specific size. It had to be big enough to hold the battery of my tools, which are mainly ryobi one+ tools.
so the planning part is mainly seeing how many “handle support parts”, “side panels walls” and “end pieces”.
So draw out the size and shap of the largest parts and the walls and see if they can fit on your chosen wood and if not change the design slightly until it all works.
Step 2: Cut Out the Parts.
I started by drawing the two large ‘house’ shapes on the plank. I cut two identical pieces, and the drew the thickness of the base and side pieces.
I then cut these sections out of one of the ‘house shapes.” This part will be the middle wall of the tool box.
The side walls and base are the same length and the walls are as high as you wish them to be.
Step 3: Test Fit and Final Assembly
Once all the parts were cut I did a dry fit assembly to test all the components fit and to get the sizing for the handle and end section for the power tools.
Once the spacing is set it was time to drill the holes for the handle. Using a Forsner bit the same size of the handle I clamped the two ‘house parts’ together and drilled through both of them to make sure the hole was in the same place on both pieces.
Once the spacing and handle holes were drilled I drilled counter sunk pilot holes where they would be held together and then screwed it alltogether with wood screws.
Step 4: Internal Caddy (optional)
This step is optional but I wanted a little internal caddy that could be removed if not needed.
In my planning (in my head) this caddy would hold screws, drillbits, wall plugs and other small items I didn’t want rolling around the bottom of the main tool box.
The insert box is a similar design to the main box, sides and ends are the same with the middle divider having a raised section to make picking it up out of the tool box easier.
I just wood glued this box together as the wood is a bit thin for screws and I didn’t feel like nailing it all.
Step 5: Painting.
I taped the handle off at the ends where it meets the main body (because I was too lazy to remove it for painting.) and gave the whole tool box a sanding.
Then I painted everything apart from the handle with an outdoor hard wearing paint (also what I had in the shed)
after a couple of coats it looked good to go.
Step 6: Finished Product.
Once the paint has dried and the tape removed you have a finished tool box for all your carrying needs. (Well my carrying needs anyway)
if you like my instuctable please give it a like or vote if it’s in the competition at the moment you may be reading this :)
if you have any questions please ask and I will do my best to answer.
Step 7: Additional Elements.
After finishing the tool box I used it for a while.
I discovered a little issue when using tall or heavy power tools. They would wobble and top heavy tools felt they might fall out.
So with the use of a small bungee and some screw in eyelets or hooks I made a strap that could be easily adapted for the different sized tools.
Hooking the bungee around the tool and back to the eyelet on the tool box made the tools feel safer in their place.
again. Thanks for looking at my instructable and useful lease ask if you have any questions. :)
This is an entry in the
Woodworking Contest
10 Comments
4 weeks ago
It was fun to see this project because I built one of these 50 years ago and I still have it. That is through six moves of where I live. The classic simple layout just has its uses. Mine is (I think) 3/8" plywood panels and even a handle cut from a broom pole. I left the handle free to spin at the ends and that has turned out to be very comfortable. When the box is heavy I don't have the handle twisting against me when I reach for it or walk with it and it tends to want to swing a bit.
I put one low divider running the length of the bottom. It is placed at an angle because there are a lot of tools that are wider at one end and small parts that are easier to keep from shifting around, pushed to the narrow end. I measured my intended tools first, starting with my Estwing hammer - still have that too!
Reply 24 days ago
That is a serious toolbox.
How did you make it so that the handle spins? just make the hole a little smaller than the diamter of the dowel (broom handle) and shave the ends down a bit?
Reply 4 weeks ago
That’s great. I’m hoping mine will
Last as long as yours has :)
4 weeks ago
can you do the drawings in inches rather than c.m. Thank you
Reply 27 days ago
They are labelled in MM not CM but you can just divide the number by 25.4 to get inches. I drew it in mm as that’s what we use in the UK
4 weeks ago
Mine employed Forstner bits to create a mortice in each panel (about 3/4 depth of the panels such that they 'captured' the handle nicely and let it move as needed. I, too, noticed the imbalance created by the design for teh battery operated drill/driver. If it could be fit in the center of the tote . . . think low center of gravity, too. Maybe, with the 'right' DD, the design would allow the handle of teh DD to serve as teh handle for the tote itself.
Give me a minute to design it. I'll be back!
Reply 27 days ago
That may very well work. But using the drill as the handle wouldn’t be right for what I wanted. I wanted it to accommodate any of my power tools and also sometimes no tool at all. The imbalance isn’t a thing when you just move your hand towards the heavy end, and also if the box side has heavy tools and there is nothing in the tool holder then you can move your hand the other way.
You can design your tool box however you wish, this was the design that fit my needs and works perfectly for all the things I’ve used it for.
Question 4 weeks ago
can you do the drawing in inches rather than c m thank you!
5 weeks ago
This is nice :) I like the black paint, it's a nice touch. Is it easy to balance the box with this asymmetric handle? I guess the items in it are asymmetric anyway, but I was just wondering :)
Thanks for sharing!
Reply 5 weeks ago
It balances fine. As long as you pick it up closer to the power tool. If there is no tool it balances as you would expect.