Introduction: Large Sewing Box
I wanted a box to store my modelmaking tools. Couldn’t find what I was looking for. Decided to make it myself.
Pros:
Lots of space
Sturdy
I think it looks nice
Cons:
Heavy
Supplies
I used 10mm thick plywood.
These are the dimensions for all pieces needed. See attached text file for totals. In millimeters.
- The four foldable drawers
- (x4) Base 220x150
- (x8) Side 220x70
- (x8) Front and back 150x80
- (x2) Cover 150x240
- Bottom
- (x1) Base 450x220
- (x2) Side 220x80
- (x4) Front and back 160x90
- Bottom middle, small compartment
- (x1) Base 150x220
- (x2) Side 220x80
- (x1) Middle partition 130x80
- (x2) Cover 130x90
- Top middle, deep compartment
- (x2) Side 220x150
- (x2) Front and back 150x160
- (x1) Handle 150x70
- Lid consisting of:
- (x2) “Main lid” 150x115
- (x2) “Bottom” ~130x95
- Support arms
- (x8) Short 20x120
- (x4) Long 20x220
- Feet (optional)
- (x8) 50x50 (two per feet)
Wood glue
Nails
Screws (x28) I used partial thread screws
Hinges (x8) and screws/nails if not included.
Knobs (x6)
Side handles (x2)
Primer
Paint
Attachments
Step 1: Make a Plan
Think about what you want to put in the box. For me the inside depth of the drawers were important, the foldable drawers are approx. 7cm high on the inside and the bottom ones 8cm. This gives me enough room for my paint bottles and most other items to stand upright. And even taller items can go in the approx. 15cm deep middle compartment as well as other bits and pieces.
Step 2: Sawing
I cut all required pieces.
When marking off the required widths dont mark them all at the same time, do one at a time and then cut. When sawing you always lose a tiny bit and your marks won’t be correct anymore.
I used a T-square and ofcourse a measuring device.
Then cleaned them up with a file and some sandpaper 120 grit.
Step 3: Foldable Drawers Assembly
Glue the side pieces on top of the base. I used a square piece of wood and a clamp to position it straight and put another clamp to secure it, and let it dry 1,5-2 hours. Repeat for both sides.
I put some nails from the bottom on the side pieces for extra security.
Glue the front and back pieces. I didn’t put nails this time (esthetics).
Step 4: Bottom & Bottom Middle Assembly
I marked the base as to where the pieces will go.
Then I first glued the two sides on either far ends, similarily as the previous drawers.
In the meantime I started assembling the middle compartment. Same thing again but with a partition in the middle (optional). This will go upside down on the base, glued, and nailed from the top.
Again I put nails from the bottom aswell.
Then I glued the four front and then back pieces on.
Step 5: Top Middle Assembly
I glued on the sides on top of the lower compartment installed in the previous step. And then the front and back.
Step 6: Bottom Covers & Feet
In hindsight I probably would have done this after painting but this also worked out in the end.
I installed the doors for the small compartments, I used small hinges, and put them on the bottom of the box. I lined them up 2cm from the corners, put small holes on where the nails go with an awl and secured them.
I also glued on the knobs, that I made myself because I was 2 knobs short. Two pieces of approx. 1,5cm spare sticks glued together and gave it some rounding with a file. I was fine with that because the knobs I had were a bit too large for them I think.
Then I made the feet, also improvised. Two 5x5cm glued together. Gave it some rounding with a file and glued them onto the box.
Step 7: Handle
Now i’m making a handle. I cut the corners 1x2cm so it can slot in, and with a holesaw I drilled two holes either side at a distance of approx. 2cm from the edges, in the middle.
With a jigsaw I got the curvature in there. If I didn’t have a jigsaw at my disposal I probably would have used a small handsaw to cut out the inside (no curve)
Cleaned it up with a file and sandpaper.
Now I marked off the middle of the top of the box. This is where I glued the handle on and let this dry. On the side of the box I also put two nails in, either side.
Then I used sandpaper 400 grit on the entire box with the drawers on.
Step 8: Lids and Preparation
Then I assembled the lids for the deep compartment. Measure out the inside space to be sure where the bottom piece has to sit to have it fit correctly. It shouldn’t sit too tight either.
I attached the knobs, I had ones that screw on so I drilled a hole in the middle. The screw was too long so I had to cut off a portion. Put them on. I think I could have just glued them perfectly fine aswell.
Now it is time to put the drawers together in a way that fit best, once I was happy I marked onto the box where the drill holes go for the support arms.
Do this concentrated, I put my lines wrong the first time.
Step 9: Top Covers
Then I attached the knobs on the pieces for the top covers.
Again, I probably would have rather done the hinges after painting, but I did it now.
Lined up the hinges 2cm from the corners and screwed them on. For these I used slightly bigger hinges than for the smaller lower covers.
Step 10: Drilling Holes and Test Run
I marked the support arms and drilled the holes. I used the first one as a ‘template’, this way the distances will match.
I rounded the ends of the support arms with a file (optional)
Then I also drilled the holes onto the drawers. I already marked those previously.
(Its possible to skip this part) Then I went for a test run, attached the arms. Loosen the screws a bit so it’s not too tight.
Everything good and functional!? When you’re happy, detach it again so we can get on to painting.
Step 11: Priming and Painting
I primed everything 2 coats and then painted. I went for a anthracite grey color.
Step 12: Final Assembly
Now I attach the side handles on the top drawers, centered.
And now to put it all together. Again loosen the screws a bit so it folds nicely.
At first I wanted something like a magnet to hold the small doors but it ended up sitting fine so I didn’t.
Done!
33 Comments
6 weeks ago
I love it in that black, looks very serious and professional.
7 weeks ago
Well done! I made a verson from Woodworker Magazine, December 1951, pages 230,231,234 Lady's Work Box and made from Walnut & Mansonia. This model was like the commercial ones sold today, with them standing on 24" legs and a hooped handle. The plywood thicknesses from 1/8" to 7/8".
The version I made I removed the legs and built two drawers under the bottom boxes, the top one half the size of the bottom drawer. The upper boxes were graduated with the top the shallowish, the second layer twice the height and the bottom was the height of the first box and the height of second layer.
This is a great project for anyone to undertake as it is very forgiving to alterations.
7 weeks ago on Step 12
An excellent project I plan to build maybe more than once. I do a lot of model building from kits - Revell, Monogram, etc. and have done this my entire life (I'm 63). So I have lots of small tools, paints, leftover decals, spare parts, etc. Then I also have crafting kids - crayons, markers, erasers, glues, etc. They will need their own box. Looks like organization has come to town! Thank you!
7 weeks ago
Thank you. This is a nice design that isn't so demanding that only pros can make it. For my sewing room, I will use ceramic or glass knobs for a touch of girly glam!
8 weeks ago on Step 12
Just today I was thinking that I should make this for my partner, as a “let’s get back together” gift 😅
I had looked up how to make a cantilevered sewing box, but YouTube was so lacking in that department, it is not funny.
Thank you for your design. I look forward to building this for her sometime soon. I wonder if I could make something like this out of aluminium sheets instead, or from reinforced balsa wood… to keep it lighter?
Thank you for sharing your wonderful project 🤗🙌
Reply 8 weeks ago
Hi isa k
It will work fine if you use a thinner plywood. 6mm or even 3mm. Depending on what type of things she will put in it. I saw a cheap one at IKEA and the ply was 3mm.
But i guess if you want that gal back ... you might have to make it from titanium decorated with diamonds! 😂
Good luck!
Reply 8 weeks ago
Titanium decorated with diamonds 🤣
😳
Reply 8 weeks ago
4mm (5/32”) ply should also be fine. I would need to factor into the measurements some extra width and length of the pieces, as I would probably join them via box/finger joints.
8 weeks ago on Step 11
Very very good!
8 weeks ago
Wow. I was just looking at something like this to buy. Gorgeous job and love the plans!
8 weeks ago on Introduction
Mooi product, Wouter!
8 weeks ago
nice! What kind of feet does it have? It looks like it is sort of hovering, so there must be something that it sits on, but I could not find pictures of the underneath area.
Reply 8 weeks ago
The last photo in step 6 show the feet which are “just” 2 squares glued together 😅 These are then glued underneath the box in each corner.
Thank you!
2 months ago
wow, that's amazing! nice job!! you really put some extra effort into this one!
Is it stable as is, or do you have to open both sides so it doesn't tip over?
Again - very well done :) can't wait to see more projects of yours!
Reply 8 weeks ago
The antique sewing cabinets like this were all very stable. . . . unless you're filling them with fishing weights! LOL
Reply 2 months ago
Thank you!
It does not tip over with only one side opened. Very stable!
Reply 8 weeks ago
Extra reason for me to build this now!
8 weeks ago
Woo Hoo! I want one! But mine is for sewing, which I assume would mean I could get away with lighter weight -- something or other -- ? How about wood instead of plywood -- what thickness? How about waterproofing, is that a good idea/advisable? I am SO glad this isn't about something edible -- I'd have drooled all over my iPad 🤪 .
Reply 8 weeks ago
I wouldn't be able to lift this so instead of legs, I'm going to use wheels!
Reply 8 weeks ago
My mom has one made out of 1/4" plywood that has held up for at least 20 years now.